Monday, April 20, 2015

Why are there potato chips in shop windows?

You know what's weird? Well.. a lot of things are. But.. this.. this is particularly odd. Potato chips (crisps, for those playing in the UK) in shop windows. I mean... up against the storefront window, in some kind of glass or perspex giant box. I'm assuming the shopkeep scoops them out and puts them in little baggies for customers who say "I'll have a bag of chips please".. or "Tiene patatas fritos por favor" (check my broken Spanish!). I just find this seriously odd. I mean.. seriously odd. It seems very unhygienic, for one.. also - don't chips go kinda soft and icky when exposed to air and moisture for long periods? Isn't that why they come in those sealed bags? And.. I mean... who wants someone touching their chips? Or sneezing on them? And why chips? SO MANY QUESTIONS!

It's been a good week. I've done a fair amount of walking around our lovely neighbourhood, and the surrounding barrios. We live in Estrella, which translates to 'star', and our street name translates to 'southern cross'. I think that has a lovely bit of kismet to it, a feeling of fated paths crossing, that my home in Spain shares the name of a much loved emblem for my birth home. I've joined a gym at long last - it is a cheerful 5 minute walk across two streets and through a lovely neighbourhood garden. The staff there speak a little English, which is nice. I decided I would tackle going back to my workouts in a very typical 'me' manner, and went all in from day one. By day three I was somewhat crippled, as I'd hit my back and my legs hard on days one and two. I decided a sensible approach would be to rest on Wednesday, and resume my efforts again on Thursday. It was a good strategy, and my body is responding well to the much-needed kick.

Skyped with mum again this morning, got to see my gorgeous little furchild on camera - poor little man looked so confused as to where mummy's voice was coming from. He settled on mum's lap and gave her hand a wash, which was heartwarming to see. Apparently he'd been happily curved up on dad's lap "helping" him read a book (I can picture it right now.. LB shoving his face repeatedly in front of the book to garner more attention from Dad). Mum and I talked about various subjects.. what I've been up to, when am I going to fly to France (she's obsessed, I tell you), when am I going to fly to London to visit my little sister, Amber.. and somehow we got onto the topic of Jill's house in Ipswich. Memory is a funny thing. I remember being 4 years old - I clearly remember the toilet in Jilly's house in Ipswich.. I remember it having a floor to ceiling bookshelf, stuffed full of interesting books and comics.. I remember the pool at that house, with the palm fronds lazily skimming the surface of the water as they danced in the wind to an unheard rhythm. I remember the funny noise her cat, Shimmy, used to make, and how the sunlight would reflect off his impressively glossy coat, his perfectly triangular little Siamese face with its all-knowing eyes. I remember being so small, and watching Jill's kids Sarah and Ben, jumping into the pool sending water splashing everywhere. But I do not remember a conversation I have had with you last week, or this morning. I do not remember if I have taken my daily vitamins. I do not remember sometimes, how I got here (wherever "here" may be at the time). Sometimes I don't remember something you said to me three seconds ago. And yet.. I remember being three, sleepy in my pram as mum and Jill walked around our western suburbs neighbourhood, the sun dappling through the tree leaves overhead, the slightly bumpy feeling of the uneven footpath. I remember the phone number of the house we lived in when I was six years old - the name of the street - the way my sister used to push me down the laundry shute and sometimes I'd get lucky and land on a pile of laundry.. sometimes I wouldn't. I remember tormenting that poor male pheasant coucal with my Fisher Price kazoo - it must've sounded like a mating call from a female because he would go nuts trying to find the phantom bird. But I don't remember friends I made in my twenties, I don't remember people I knew from University (unless of course, we've kept in touch). I'm grateful for the memories I have of my young life. Not that my adult years have been something I wish to forget, but my childhood.. oh my idyllic childhood. The simplicity of being young and taken care of by good, loving parents. When I leave this mortal world, if I have nothing else I wish to remember, this is what I want to think of when I'm drawing my last breath. The warmth of the sun, the sound of my mother's laughter, my father's voice, our dog's bark; the feeling of being small and protected and loved.

Well. I got way off track there.

Surprise surprise - cooking is a big part of my life here. A is a fantastic cook, but I have such joy for it, and I thoroughly enjoy spending a day dreamily leafing through cookbooks, imagining the way things taste, putting together meals in my mind. I found a fantastic kitchenware shop in barrio Centro - as far West as I have been in Madrid of my own accord - and I spent an afternoon in there, going through every item on the overstuffed shelves until I had found the pieces I needed. A flan tin, with removable base - so I can make quiches, flans, cheesecakes. Ceramic baking beads, so I can blind-bake the pastry and avoid disaster. Measuring cups, and spoons, so my cakes don't rise too little, or too much. The kitchenware shop, Alambique, is the culinary equivalent of a well stocked, charismatic old bookstore. I could've curled up and had a nap, blissfully surrounded by my favourite things. They also have a culinary school there, so I think we both know I will be enrolling in one of their courses fairly soon. They do a traditional tapas in Ingles afternoon periodically - that sounds like an excellent idea to me. I believe they're held on Fridays, which means I can then spend the weekend stuffing A full of all the (hopefully) tasty things I've learnt to cook. It is a beautiful part of the city, so I will take a backpack and my D-SLR, and make a day of it.

The weather is supposed to be warming up, but I find myself still in yoga pants and a hoodie at the warmest part of the day. It was positively coldlast night when we left the restaurant to embark upon the journey home. As I huddled against A's lovely broad warm chest for shelter, he assured me that it was indeed a "weird spring". I wonder if this means summer will be mild? We can all live in hope.

Adios, mi amigos.
M x

Spring has sprung, the grass has ris, but you're not allowed to touch it.

Spring has sprung! The grass has ris - I wonder where the birdies is? Outside my kitchen window, as it so turns out, sitting in the tall trees directly in front of our Northern wall (kitchen area), chirping and singing and showing off their glorious feathers to me. I love the views we have from our apartment - views to the North, South and West (East is an internal wall we share with next door - two apartments per floor) are filled with trees and birds and spring loveliness.



What a lovely week I've had. Two weeks into being in Madrid, and I'm starting to get a sense of just how completely different our cultures are. For example. No, you cannot order a beer and a water at the same time, that's just bizarre. BUT you can totally order a wine and a water together, that's acceptable. It's impolite to refuse the 'free-but-not-free' bread. You can sit outside alfresco style if you want to have a drink and maybe a tapa, but it's weird to sit outside if you want to eat. 2:30pm is no man's land between appertivo and lunch. Yes, they have pre-lunch. They also have pre-dinner. It's not just drinks, it's drinks and tapa. I get accused of eating a lot you know, but when a country actively makes you eat twice for each meal - who's really to blame?



We've done several lovely walks around our neighbourhood this past week - it was Easter of course, so A had Thursday and Friday off work, giving us a four day mini holiday together. We spent it mostly at home playing our game side by side (yes yes I know), but we did get out and about each day as well. Friday we went for a glorious three (or so) hour walk, heading South in our neighbourhood so A could show me the best pastry shop our side of town.. then West up the big hill to Retiro, where we meandered for a good hour, watching families, listening to the birdies, talking to the feral cats I found. It was very pleasant, the sun gently warming our faces, the brilliant blue sky framed by semi-naked spring branches scratching young green leaves across the azure heavens. We did a loop and ended up outside Trenque Lauquen (possibly misspelling that horribly) which is the Argentinian restaurant A took me to during my visit last September. They love him there - big warm greetings and lots of smiles and affection.. I met the owner, Sonia, who reminds me of someone I can't quite place. Some spectacular empanadas later and we were refuelled and ready for the twenty minute walk back home. For such a big city, it really is nice to be able to walk the streets at night without fear sinking cold into your bones; I get no spidey sense nearly everywhere I've been. I did stumble upon an alleyway last week when I was trying to short-cut home after doing an extensive amount of shopping (read: it was bloody heavy and I wanted to get home before my arms fell off) and felt those tiny little hairs raise up, so I did a 180 and marched right back up to the main road where I immediately felt safe again. But that's been the only occasion.. for the most part Madrid feels safe, open, no danger lurking in corners, no fear of street harassment (which frankly surprises the hell out of me) or pickpockets. I know we don't live in the "gypsy district" but it has a whole different flavour to other European cities I have visited.



Speaking of beauty.. I'm sure some of you have seen the photo I posted of our garden? Our apartment complex is actually two apartment buildings, and each one has its own big beautiful garden - the exterior hedged and the interior a beautiful lawn complete with big trees and lovely flowers including roses and margaritas (daisies!).. they're idyllic to look at, and that's all you're allowed to do. Look. Each garden is fenced and has a gate that is padlocked. No, residents do not have keys to this padlock (which would make sense to me). It is literally a look-but-don't-touch garden. You're not allowed to sit in there and read a book, or kick a ball with your child, or walk your dog. These are big gardens I'm talking about - half a block each. Beautifully taken care of - but again, you're not allowed to actively enjoy/use them. Does anyone other than me find this terribly strange? Yet another Spanish oddity.



I must move, as I have goals to achieve today, and that won't happen sitting around my living room writing blogs and zoning out remembering all the good times I've had the past week. Goal #1 - find a gym I like. Until then, I'm going to continue to get to know every street, every laneway, every hill, until they're written in my memory like fine threads winding into the overall tapestry that will be my mental Madrid map. And if I happen to see some interesting shoe stores on the way, so be it.



Till next time!

M x

Segovia.. an expedition back in time

Friday night BF was all excited smiles, telling me we had to go to bed at a reasonable hour so we could get up early as he had plans for us the next day. My clues? "A lot of walking, and a lot of stairs." Uh-huh. I do love a good surprise though, and I have utter and complete trust in this man (there's a first..) so I just smiled back at his gorgeous face and said "sure, let me know if what I'm wearing is OK".

I'm not entirely sure why, but I had assumed we were walking - from the house. We were in fact, not. As he opened my car door for me, I had a small thrill of anticipation, I had absolutely no idea where we were going, but I hoped it had something to do with the mountains I had seen from the highway last week. As it so turns out, he can read minds, because soon we started heading for the mountains, and I relaxed into the very comfortable leather of the passenger seat, and took in the beautiful countryside beginning to unfold itself to us as we zipped out of Madrid's city limits.

Segovia is about 90 mins out of Madrid, nestled in the hills, frozen in time with stunning sandstone buildings, cobblestone streets, and of course, the ancient Roman aqueduct. We parked in the more modern part of the town, and walked our way up steep narrow streets, winding, winding, winding until eventually we were right in front of some of the arches of the aqueduct itself. We did a lot of walking, and then proceeded to climb a lot of stairs. The view from the top was absolutely breathtaking. It is unimaginable - the sheer volume of rock that was chiselled and carved and moved, lifted, to form this masterpiece of engineering. The city itself is such a quaint and picturesque little town, and it captured my heart entirely.

After walking the length of the "ruins" (I use inverted commas because it is in impeccable condition, given it's a couple of thousand of years old), BF wanted to show me an equally ancient cathedral. I've seen a lot of churches, cathedrals and other religious constructs in my time but this was something truly special. I took so many photos I nearly ran out of battery. Gold plated designs in the interior.. stained glass that would rival the beauty of those found in the Catholic churches in Italy.. it is something truly special. I had a spiritual moment inside that caught me very off-guard, and I found I needed to sit and breathe and just let it wash over me. Something spoke to me while I was inside that church, and I heard its message very clearly. As we left I felt so overwhelmed, and wanting to share what I had just experienced, but I couldn't do it justice walking, so we walked to a closeby bar and sat to enjoy appertivo (pre-lunch drink and tapa). After soaking in a villager wedding right next to our table, and then watching a demonstration about something-or-another (loud, annoying, protest elsewhere please..), we made our way through the winding cobblestone streets to the restaurant BF had booked for our lunch.

Boy was it a treat. The local dish is suckling piglet - roasted whole, served with something delicious. BF ordered our food, and I was in heaven. It was complimented beautifully by the vintage red he ordered, and we ate and ate and drank until I thought my pants might burst. It was such a perfect day, and the drive home was filled with views of the gorgeous Spanish countryside.

Segovia is a little slice of heaven. I would happily go there again some day.

Till next time,
M x

Adventures in Spanglish: Part 2 (ha! knew it!)

Goodness me. This really was an adventure in Spanglish today. It started off well; I considered where I had walked the past six days, and thought that instead of heading West/North or some combination thereof, I would head West/South. Gasp! Rebellious little me.

Madrid is divided up into neighbourhoods, or barrios, and some are more desirable than others, as is usually the case in large cities. Up to this point, I had been spending my time exploring the salubrious neighbourhoods to the North and West of our neighbourhood (Estrella). Today, I decided I would just wander in a different direction, still in the larger barrio of Retiro, but just go a little further South than I had before. This turned out to be a really, really great idea. Not only did I get to wander through the quaint, cosy and simply beautiful streets of Nino Jesus, I ended up in Pacifico, a cultural melting pot full of immigrants and interesting shops galore. I came because Trip Advisor told my hungry stomach that there was a high rated but low priced restaurant about a mile from where I was standing, and at this point, my phone's internet was working, so I walked south/west/south/west until eventually I came upon the right Calle, and fronted up to the famous restaurant. Which was closed. Bloody hell Madrid, it's 11am! I'm hungry here! So I found a bench, and I sat, and people watched for a good hour. Texted BF to ask if I could expect the restaurant to be open at 12pm.. his response was something like "maybe". Then another text, asking where I was. To which I responded, "I think I'm in Pacifico?". This did not go down well; apparently my now much-liked Pacifico is a somewhat dodgy neighbourhood. Wanting to stay and eat at the restaurant, but also wanting to heed BF's advice, I was torn only briefly, before I reluctantly left my happy spot on the bench, and meandered back to the safer, prettier Nino Jesus instead.

All this walking will make a girl hungry (hey! it'd been a good three hours!), so I decided to try a bar in our local Estrella instead. Boy oh boy, was this a lesson in Spanglish. Naturally, my phone's internet had died again at this point (it hates me, truly), so I was left with literally only the Spanish I could remember, which is insufficient when faced with a waitress who was determined to be stubborn as hell (yes, stubborn. No, not unable to understand English, actually stubborn. Because I found out later she spoke English reasonably well), and a brain that is tired from too much sun & walking and not enough water. I pointed to a few items on the menu, and before I knew it, I was enjoying a beer and boquerones fritos - flash fried boquerones (white anchovies). Delicious! I could get used to all the gorgeous different raciones here - I'm beginning to recognise some of the names which is helpful.

Must run - things to see!
M x